Dave MacLeods Buch „9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes“ ist fertig gedruckt und gerade auf dem Weg zu ihnen, so dass die ersten Exemplare in gut einer Woche versendet werden dürften!
Dabei ist sein Buch laut eigener Aussage nicht ein weiteres der „was trainieren“-Bücher, sondern mehr ein Führer durch den Dschungel der auch dank Internet immer zahlreicheren und weitverbreiteteren Informationen zum Klettertraining.

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes

Damit die Leser sich schon vorab eine Vorstellung davon machen können, was sie erwartet, hat er das Inhaltsverzeichnis veröffentlicht:

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes: navigation through the maze of advice for the self-coached climber

Contents:

9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes
Barking up the wrong tree

1. Part 1 – Creatures of habit
• Stuck on the basics
• The first thing to understand
• The first thing to change
• Fail, and prepare to succeed
• If only I knew now what I knew then
• Too embarrassed to climb?
• Is this grade a success or mediocre?
• The first generation was the freest
• Starting from scratch
• The truth about famous climbers
• Know your enemy – your tastes
• Don’t get stuck
• Creatures of habit
2. Part 2 – The big four: movement technique, finger strength, endurance, body mass
• The biggest lesson from sport science
• You cannot break the laws
• How to learn technique
• Record, replay, review
• No one does drills, right?
• The structure of climbing technique
• The need for momentum
• Types of momentum
• The issue of height
• Don’t just push with your feet!
• Counterintuitive aspects of climbing technique
• Precision really matters
• Trying to make the hold bigger
• Don’t overrate strength
• Bouldering is number one
• But I don’t like bouldering!
• How to boulder to show off, or get strong
• Board heads
• A good bouldering session
• Fingerboard rules
• To crimp or not to crimp
• Making sense of Haston and Oddo
• Making sense of Ondra and Sharma shapes
• How light do I need to be?
• How to get light without pain?
• Steps for losing and maintaining a lower weight for climbing
• Who needs to pump iron to climb hard?
• To the wiry
• To the beefcake
• To the tall
• To the lucky little ones
• When you really can blame your tools
• Campus boards hurt almost everyone
• Climbing is not a cardiovascular sport
• Where is climbing endurance?
• Endurance activities
• Understanding fatigue symptoms
• Endurance rules
3. Part 3 – Fear of falling: the real problem, probably…
• The only way
• Falling technique
• Practice indoors
• Practice on sport climbs
• Building falls into your daily climbing diet
• Practice on trad
• When you just can’t fall off
4. Part 4 – The other big four: attitude, lifestyle, circumstances, tactics
• I’m young, spoon-feed me!
• Why mid-teens drop off the radar
• “I can’t do that” he said, mistakenly
• Too old to improve?
• To find time, make your time work harder for you
• Do you really want to be an athlete?
• Tactics often trump training
• What the warmup does
• Tuning in and out
• Managing the ‘psyche’ level
• Do you really want it to be easy?
• Be thick skinned at all times
• Does flexibility really matter?
5. Part 5 – What’s next coach? Planning your improvement
• Think curves, not lines
• So jump off that plateau, if you can bear it
• Regimes – how much can you handle?
• Over-resting or under-recovering?
• A kid’s regime
• A student’s regime
• A family/career hustler
• The wannabe pro
• The confused and disillusioned
• Same old routine, same old results
• Cracking bad habits is tough
• Rules of the training day
• Rules of the training season
• Annual rest and recuperation time
6. Summing up