„So about your label as a spiritual climber…“
„What I don’t like about the idea of being a “spiritual person,” is it’s like, OK, I’m a spiritual person, so I’m going to act all peaceful and try to be all saintly or something. But if you’re feeling pissed off in the moment, it’s much more true to be pissed off than try to act all peaceful.“
„The truly great thing about the Petzl rock trips is that they are about a gathering of climbers going climbing. The whole philosophy keeps true to the roots of why most of us started, and continue to love the sport.“
Does the fact that you are trying and sending other routes than FRFM after your return from your USA trip mean that you have given up with it?
No, I haven’t given up on FRFM. But with the weather getting warmer I’m just doing different things. I’m still motivated to send the route. After this last season working on it and falling off the top so many times, I think it’s good to change focus to something else and then come back with fresh motivation. At this point I would really love other climbers to get on it. It’s such a good route and it needs to be climbed; if not by me then by someone else.
Do you ever go to the gym to train, or is it enough to climb outside?
J: Well for me personally I enjoy climbing inside and outside. But before this trip I decided that maybe it was time to try and step it up and put myself on somewhat of a „training“ regiment. So Brion and I probably spent 4 to 5 days a week training at The Tennessee Bouldering Authority for around 3 months leading up to our departure.
B: Weather in the Southeast is unpredictable and often poor for extended periods of time. As a result, I often find myself in the gym more than I would like. But training in the gym has been instrumental in advancing my climbing. In fact, without our local gym, Tennessee Bouldering Authority, this would be a much less interesting interview.
Jon Partridge, Mitglied des „British Bouldering Team“, in Hueco Tanks:
Der Japaner Toru Nakajima hat in England einige Trad-Routen abgehakt, inkl. Video seiner Solo-Begehung von „Storms Over Africa (E6 6b)“
Die Teva Mountain Games, in deren Rahmen auch der nächste IFSC Boulder-Worldcup stattfindet, haben heute in Vail angefangen (Freitag gehts los mit Bouldern) und gehen noch bis Sonntag, 06.06.10! Eine Übersicht gibts hier.
Enzo Oddo in „GoGo (8c)“ in Le Palais:
Und für alle, die immer auf dem neuesten Stand sein wollen: 48h