Daniel Woods Kommentar

Nach der Diskussion über seine neueste Erstbegehung „Desperanza (V15)“ hat sich jetzt auch Daniel Woods geäußert:

„I never comment on any forums or anything but had to on this one just because it was hilarious. I just did Desperanza and saved it for the last thing I wanted to try (after every 13, 14, and terremer). To me its an amazing line that now starts from the back of the cave. Now all 3 classic climbs start there. „esperanza“, Shaken not Stirred, and Left Martini.

As for a grade I have no idea. I based it off of other stuff I had completed in Hueco. I did Esperanza when I was like 16 and for me it was hard. I had never tried it from the back of the cave until this year. This year I completed Terremer within a couple of tries from the start over a 2 day period (Though I had worked it in the past) but the same was for desperanza… worked in the past and now revisiting. So being fresh this year with both climbs I must say Desperanza felt harder than Terremer.

You must also take in the factor that it is a completely different style. Terremer is just crimps and if you can withstand pain and hold on, it is possible. Desperanza is a power enderance testpiece that for some reason has been done from a few moves in but could never be linked. I know people have tried it especially fred and it has still gone undone for years. So in my mind the math makes no sense because yea if v12 to 14 is 15 then how can 7 to 14 be 15? Well many things play a role styles of climbing… different strengths and weaknesses type of terrain the list goes on.

I do not base the difficulty of a climb based on how its graded in sections, I base it on the number of ascents it has seen and how long it takes to complete it. So yea in DGs mind Esperanza is piss he sent it 2nd try in a day and continued to rampage almost doing Terremer and even before this put up story of two worlds and Confessions (which Adam flashed) (Adam also did the sit moves to Story of 2 Worlds and did say it was hard). Dave was fit when he was in Hueco and could of taken down anything he put his mind too so I have realized when you have that confidence you dont even think of how hard it is you just do it. And this is what he did.

As for a grade with Desperanza, it could be v13-15 people who believe it is 13 call it that people who think its 15 call it that what doees it matter it is personal opinion and is not going to inflate the sport of climbing for all I know it will improve it. In my mind v15 is the new v14 well isnt that how it was in the past… people thought v5 was the hardest possible until someone came along and discovered v6 and 7 and 8 and 9 oh woah we have 15 points now maybe even 16.

The point is that this sport will continue to increase and generations coming up will be climbing harder than us and we will sit back and watch v15 being flashed and v20 being put up. Chris is taking it to a new level in sport climbing by puting up multiple 15as and now a few 15bs… wasnt it before that Realization was the only climb that could be comprehended as 15a? wow that was like 8 years ago I would hope that multiple 15s would of been established by then. This is how the 15 grade is. More and more stronger people are coming up so why not have more 15s?

People are training in gyms, have coaches, diets, the list goes on. Climbing is turning into something that is being treated as a sport rather than a lifestyle and in my mind it is both. It is amazing to see improvement and people setting new standards! I want climbing to be an olympic sport and for gyms to be established all over the world. I want to see the sport gain more money so more climbers can be supported through it and not just a couple. ?

I want the sport to grow and the only way it will is having multiple people going out and setting new standards. Not just one person multiple. This is how it will get recognized.“ (Quelle)

Szenenews der Woche

Nachtrag 2: Inzwischen gibt es bei Deadpointmag ein Video von Daniel Woods Erstbegehung von „Desperanza (V15)“
Nachtrag: In Jamie Emersons Blog wird über die unten genannte Erstbegehung von Daniel Woods, „Desperanza (V15)“, viel diskutiert, unter anderem hat sich sogar Dave Graham zu Word gemeldet und die Bewertung angezweifelt.
Die Woche als Kurzzusammenfassung:

  • Weitere Berichte von der Climb FREE 2010 auf climbing.de und kletterszene.com sowie ein Video:

  • Chris Sharma macht die Erstbegehung von First ley (9a+) (Quelle)
  • Dani Andrada ist auch nicht untätig, Directa open your mind (9a+) und Ciudad des dios (9a) (Quelle)
  • weitere Neuigkeiten aus Spanien sowie Fotos
  • Die 19-jährige Norwegerin Therese Johansen bouldert vier(!) ~8As in 3 Tagen! Sehr inspirierend! (Quelle)
  • Chris Webb-Parsons schließt seinen Reha-Trip (nach schwerer Schulterverletzung und OP) mit dem Boulder „The Buttermilker sitdown (8B)“ ab (Quelle 1, Quelle 2)
  • Joey Kinder ist weiterhin fleißig am Einbohren an einem geheimen Ort, O-Ton „The future for hard sport climbing in the USA is here.“ („Die Zukunft für hartes Sportklettern in den USA ist hier!“)
  • Paul Robinson bouldert gerade The Game (8C+) von Daniel Woods aus:

    „I have been getting on the game a bit and i feel like the line is coming together!!! I have spent five days on it and the moves are all starting to get linked together and I am hoping to try it again tomorrow! This line is by far one of the hardest things i have tried and would love to be able to piece it together for the second ascent.“

    („Ich habe mich etwas an The Game versucht und ich fühle dass der Boulder sich langsam zusammenfügt!!! Ich habe fünf Tage damit verbracht und die Züge fangen alle an zusammenzupassen und ich hoffe es morgen wieder probieren zu können! Diese Linie ist bei weitem eines der härtesten Dinge die ich probiert habe und ich würde sie wahnsinnig gerne zusammenhängend klettern und die zweite Begehung machen.“)

  • Wie Anfang Februar gibt es ein weiteres Interview mit Iker Pou
  • Alex Puccio hat ihren fünten(!) 8A+-Boulder gemacht (Quelle)
  • Daniel Woods hat die Erstbegehung von „Desperenza (V15)“ in Hueco Tanks gemacht (Quelle)
  • Der CORE-Trailer ist online, der neue Film von Chuck Fryberger in in Videoclipmanier (Premiere in Boulder am 07.04.2010), Kletterer & Drehorte findet ihr direkt bei Nalle):

  • Dave MacLeod berichtet was er von dem neuen Kletterschuh Instincts von Scarpa hält
  • Winterklettern: Dave MacLeod hat nicht nur kürzlich die selbstgestellte Marshall Smith Challenge (eine Woche lang historische Routen nachklettern, die damals ebenfalls während einer Woche geklettert wurden) erfolgreich beendet sondern gleich weitergemacht und eine Sommer-E8 (Umrechnung von 8a.nu und klettern.de) im Winter begangen