Was war der entscheidende Faktor zum Durchstieg?
Am wichtigsten war es für mich, mir trotz der vielen Klettertage keinen Stress zu machen, den Spaß am projektieren zu bewahren und immer motiviert weiterzuversuchen. Wenn ich mal keine Lust auf die Route hatte bin ich in andere Gebiete gefahren, um neue Sachen zu versuchen auf die ich mehr Lust hatte.
How’d you train for it?
I’ve been doing really wide lat pull-downs, because the crux move is really extended for me, and I wanted to be able to pull down a lot more than my body weight. I haven’t climbed on any crimps, really. I haven’t done any training finger-strength wise.
Das Video der Begehung gibt es auf DPM! Inklusive seiner Meinung zur aktuellen Debatte über Schwierigkeitsgrade („Grades are not the evolution of bouldering“)!
Zum Vergleich: Daniel Woods bei der Erstbegehung:
What’s your training regimen?
My training consists of climbing outside if the weather is nice, or climbing in the gym for a couple hours a day a few days a week. Sometimes I’ll do Climb-Fit workouts if I’m feeling extremely motivated. And drinking Oreo milkshakes.
„Live Coverage for Vienna: 28th May 10:00 start qualification men 17:00 or 19:30 start qualification women (depending on weather) 29th May 12:30 start semi finals 19:30 start finals 22:00 award ceremony“
Alex Puccio bouldert „Tequila Sunrise (V12)“ in diesem Video
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I’m focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
DPM: You have written about trying to understand grades & whether or not we should reaffirm the grade. Where do you stand on grades? Is grade inflation too prevalent and is revisiting old problems and down-rating helpful to our understanding? Dai: I’m not so keen to talk about grading, to be honest. Grades are strictly dependent on personal senses. For instance, while I may be able to climb some 8b+’s easily that other people may struggle, there are 8a’s I cannot do at all. There are many people who are trapped into ‚grading‘ so much that they are making climbing rather constrained and uneasy. That’s very unfortunate. Rock climbing is freer, and I think those who must be strict about grading should be some professionals only. Grade is only a small part of certain problem/route, whether or not a problem is up-graded or down-graded does not change the beauty of line or enjoyment of making the moves of any problem. What’s important is not the numbers but it’s whether or not one can do the moves of the problem one wants to climb – nothing else.
Wer immer auf dem aktuellsten Stand sein möchte – 48h!