What’s your training regimen?
My training consists of climbing outside if the weather is nice, or climbing in the gym for a couple hours a day a few days a week. Sometimes I’ll do Climb-Fit workouts if I’m feeling extremely motivated. And drinking Oreo milkshakes.
„Live Coverage for Vienna: 28th May 10:00 start qualification men 17:00 or 19:30 start qualification women (depending on weather) 29th May 12:30 start semi finals 19:30 start finals 22:00 award ceremony“
Alex Puccio bouldert „Tequila Sunrise (V12)“ in diesem Video
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I’m focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
DPM: You have written about trying to understand grades & whether or not we should reaffirm the grade. Where do you stand on grades? Is grade inflation too prevalent and is revisiting old problems and down-rating helpful to our understanding? Dai: I’m not so keen to talk about grading, to be honest. Grades are strictly dependent on personal senses. For instance, while I may be able to climb some 8b+’s easily that other people may struggle, there are 8a’s I cannot do at all. There are many people who are trapped into ‚grading‘ so much that they are making climbing rather constrained and uneasy. That’s very unfortunate. Rock climbing is freer, and I think those who must be strict about grading should be some professionals only. Grade is only a small part of certain problem/route, whether or not a problem is up-graded or down-graded does not change the beauty of line or enjoyment of making the moves of any problem. What’s important is not the numbers but it’s whether or not one can do the moves of the problem one wants to climb – nothing else.
Wer immer auf dem aktuellsten Stand sein möchte – 48h!
„Oh has climbed all of the peaks in traditional expedition style, with liberal use of fixed ropes, Sherpa support, and bottled oxygen on the higher peaks.
As Oh neared the top of Annapurna this week, doubts about her 2009 ascent of Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, resurfaced in numerous stories throughout the world.“ (Quelle, Hervorhebungen: kletterblog)
„Tell us about your training.
I train four, five days in a week, most of the year I do bouldering, which is good for power and technique. I begin with speed climbing before the competitions, I do running and fitness exercises. Basically what I do depends on the season of the year and on how I feel. Music is an important part of my training, it gives me energy when I am tired. Very often I look for new sounds and musical inspiration. What does it mean being an athlete?
For me it means being 100% a professional. It means sacrifice, but also satisfaction when the good results come; it’s a way of life, diet, behavior. Sport and climbing have the first place in my life. All the rest is less important. In your opinion, which is the most important quality for a competition climber?
A good competitor must be a good fighter. Strength is not as important as determination, and not always a good climber is a good competitor…“
Interview mit Extrembergsteigerin Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Vor ein paar Tagen kam die neue Ausgabe der Climax – die ihr hoffentlich nicht verpasst habt – in meinen Briefkasten getrudelt – auch kletterszene.com scheint Gefallen daran zu finden – inzwischen hat das Magazin auch eine neue Website
Auf 8a.nu gibt es ein paar Kurztipps, Stichworte: Atmen vor der Crux, Ausruhen vor dem Clippen, Arme ausschütteln sowohl nach oben wie auch nach unten, Schuhwahl je nach Gelände, ans dynamische Klettern herantasten