„So about your label as a spiritual climber…“
„What I don’t like about the idea of being a “spiritual person,” is it’s like, OK, I’m a spiritual person, so I’m going to act all peaceful and try to be all saintly or something. But if you’re feeling pissed off in the moment, it’s much more true to be pissed off than try to act all peaceful.“
„The truly great thing about the Petzl rock trips is that they are about a gathering of climbers going climbing. The whole philosophy keeps true to the roots of why most of us started, and continue to love the sport.“
What’s your training regimen?
My training consists of climbing outside if the weather is nice, or climbing in the gym for a couple hours a day a few days a week. Sometimes I’ll do Climb-Fit workouts if I’m feeling extremely motivated. And drinking Oreo milkshakes.
„Live Coverage for Vienna: 28th May 10:00 start qualification men 17:00 or 19:30 start qualification women (depending on weather) 29th May 12:30 start semi finals 19:30 start finals 22:00 award ceremony“
Alex Puccio bouldert „Tequila Sunrise (V12)“ in diesem Video
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I’m focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
DPM: You have written about trying to understand grades & whether or not we should reaffirm the grade. Where do you stand on grades? Is grade inflation too prevalent and is revisiting old problems and down-rating helpful to our understanding? Dai: I’m not so keen to talk about grading, to be honest. Grades are strictly dependent on personal senses. For instance, while I may be able to climb some 8b+’s easily that other people may struggle, there are 8a’s I cannot do at all. There are many people who are trapped into ‚grading‘ so much that they are making climbing rather constrained and uneasy. That’s very unfortunate. Rock climbing is freer, and I think those who must be strict about grading should be some professionals only. Grade is only a small part of certain problem/route, whether or not a problem is up-graded or down-graded does not change the beauty of line or enjoyment of making the moves of any problem. What’s important is not the numbers but it’s whether or not one can do the moves of the problem one wants to climb – nothing else.
Wer immer auf dem aktuellsten Stand sein möchte – 48h!
„Oh has climbed all of the peaks in traditional expedition style, with liberal use of fixed ropes, Sherpa support, and bottled oxygen on the higher peaks.
As Oh neared the top of Annapurna this week, doubts about her 2009 ascent of Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest peak, resurfaced in numerous stories throughout the world.“ (Quelle, Hervorhebungen: kletterblog)
Auf 8a.nu gibt es ein paar Kurztipps, Stichworte: Atmen vor der Crux, Ausruhen vor dem Clippen, Arme ausschütteln sowohl nach oben wie auch nach unten, Schuhwahl je nach Gelände, ans dynamische Klettern herantasten