Wer gerade (18.-20.06.10) nicht in Moskau weilt kann sich den heute beginnenden Boulder- und Speed-Worldcup per
Livestream IFSC Boulderworldcup/Speedworldcup Moskau
anschauen!
Siehe dazu den Programmablauf!
Wer gerade (18.-20.06.10) nicht in Moskau weilt kann sich den heute beginnenden Boulder- und Speed-Worldcup per
Livestream IFSC Boulderworldcup/Speedworldcup Moskau
anschauen!
Siehe dazu den Programmablauf!
Im neuesten IFSC-Newsletter ist eines der inzwischen doch recht zahlreichen Interviews mit Adam Ondra erschienen:
Teaser:
You’re still going to school, is that correct?
Yes, I go to school every day until 2pm, then I go training for 2 hours and a half.
Tell us about your training, do you train alone?
I usually train on my own, except at times when I do bouldering. If I go to the gym at 3pm nobody’s there… When I train endurance I do laps… I climb, mostly, but I also do some pull ups on a kind of rotating rail for slopers, my weak point…
In one of your recent interviews you mentioned the Olympics.
Yes. I think that climbing – being a natural movement like running or swimming – belongs to the Olympics, and I do not understand why it’s not there. Some say that sport climbing will lose its soul, but I don’t agree. Still, events may be improved, even if I think that what we are missing is basically attention from the media. Boulder is somehow difficult to understand, and lead could probably be more intense or bouldery; but I think that recently it got better, for example the route in China was good, long but fast.
Die aktuellen News in der Übersicht, diesmal etwas mehr – vor allem viele Klettervideos!:
Frauen:
Berichte: Michael Schöpf (ÖWK), Planetmountain
Videos:
Interview von Alex Johnson zu ihrem Sieg beim Boulder-Worldcup in Greifensee, Teaser:
What’s your training regimen?
My training consists of climbing outside if the weather is nice, or climbing in the gym for a couple hours a day a few days a week. Sometimes I’ll do Climb-Fit workouts if I’m feeling extremely motivated. And drinking Oreo milkshakes.
„Live Coverage for Vienna: 28th May 10:00 start qualification men 17:00 or 19:30 start qualification women (depending on weather) 29th May 12:30 start semi finals 19:30 start finals 22:00 award ceremony“
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I’m focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
DPM: You have written about trying to understand grades & whether or not we should reaffirm the grade. Where do you stand on grades? Is grade inflation too prevalent and is revisiting old problems and down-rating helpful to our understanding?
Dai: I’m not so keen to talk about grading, to be honest. Grades are strictly dependent on personal senses. For instance, while I may be able to climb some 8b+’s easily that other people may struggle, there are 8a’s I cannot do at all. There are many people who are trapped into ‚grading‘ so much that they are making climbing rather constrained and uneasy. That’s very unfortunate. Rock climbing is freer, and I think those who must be strict about grading should be some professionals only. Grade is only a small part of certain problem/route, whether or not a problem is up-graded or down-graded does not change the beauty of line or enjoyment of making the moves of any problem. What’s important is not the numbers but it’s whether or not one can do the moves of the problem one wants to climb – nothing else.
Und weiter gehts mit einem frisch veröffentlichten IFSC–Interview, diesmal:
Appetizer:
How often do you train?
I train five or six days a week, three days at home, and twice in a climbing gym. I do some jogging, too.
But you’re not a professional, are you?
No, I am not. (…)
Die IFSC hat gerade ein Interview mit Kilian Fischhuber veröffentlicht, zu finden hier:
IFSC-Interview Kilian Fischhuber
Themen: Training, Olympia, sein Beruf und Lesen 😉