Interview: Adam Ondra

Es wird einfach nicht langweilig! Interviews mit High-End Kletterern und Boulderern motivieren mich einfach ungemein, weil man einen Einblick bekommt wie diese Leute zu ihrem Sport stehen und was sie alles dafür opfern.

Ahead of time – Interview with Adam Ondra for Baurock.ru

 

Adam Ondra - Confessions 8B(+), Foto: Vojtech Vrzba

Adam Ondra - Confessions 8B(+), Foto: Vojtech Vrzba


 
Einige Auszüge aus dem Interview (Hervorhebungen von kletterblog.info):

„In general, I do not think it is that is important to have a good super good training conditions, it is enough to climb in two or three different bouldering rooms and with strong will you can train very well (…)“

„For this route [Chilam Balam] I am quite motivated, it is stunning line.“

„I train more or less just by climbing. How simple! I train on couple of small bouldering walls, where I train endurance and bouldering power as well. I rarely climb indoor with rope because there are not good walls enough in the city. The way I train depends on what I am training for. If I am preparing for bouldering, I do just lot of hard boulders. If I train endurance I do laps. I figure out usually 20move lap and try to climb 3 times. 60 moves are usually more than enough. Good trick how to become stronger is to use ONLY micro footholds for your feet. You work on your power and precise footwork at the same time. I do not train more than 3 days in a row.“

„(…) besides climbing and school I do not really do anything else.“

„Height: 182cm weight: 59kg ape index: 2cm
pull ups: 30 one hand pull up: 0
Quite weak in pull ups, uh? Climbing is interesting sport.“

 

Paul Robinsons Projekt

Das Boulderkarussel um die schwerste Linie in den USA dreht sich wieder, diesmal ist Paul Robinson dran (letztes Mal: Daniel Woods mit „The Game (V16)„):
 
Wie im Prana-Blog berichtet wird versucht er sich gerade an dem sogenannten „Rasta Man Sit Start“ am Granpa Peabody Boulder in Bishop, der sehr steil und fingerlastig sein soll.

„Paul is spending this week in Bishop working on the ultra progressive problem and is feeling very strong. He has done all of the moves but now he has to link it up.“ (Quelle, Hervorhebung: kletterblog.info)

 

Paul Robinson - Rasta Man Sit Start (Bishop), Foto: Prana

Paul Robinson - Rasta Man Sit Start (Bishop), Foto: Prana


 
Dabei erhielt er Besuch von keinem geringeren als Chris Sharma – hat dieser etwa wieder Interesse am Bouldern gefunden??

„On Sunday, Chris Sharma came out to see what it was all about – after talking with Paul and trying a few moves, he confirmed that it could be one of the hardest boulder problems in the U.S.“ (Quelle, Hervorhebung: kletterblog.info)