Das ist mal eine Ansage! Ein ungeschnittenes Video gibts wohl auch bald! Gemeldet von Jamie Emerson! Die erste Amerikanerin die einen richtigen F8B-Boulder geschafft hat?
Inzwischen auch bei ClimbingNarc und Peter Beal.
My training has changed considerably over the last few years. Previously my training would be quite generalised with the grand plan to try and stay fit all year round so I could go on lots of trips away. Now my emphasis is on getting into the best condition for the international competition circuit over the summer months.
Nach (oder wahrscheinlich schon längst vorher in der Printausgabe) Björn Pohl hat jetzt auch die klettern ein Interview mit Pirmin Bertle veröffentlicht, der gerade „Force du Rapport (9a)“ erstbegehen konnte.
Das Problem an vielen Karriereplanungen ist, dass die Leute versuchen, über einen Weg der Widrigkeiten und des Verzichts zu einem Zustand der Erfüllung zu gelangen. Psychologisch betrachtet lernen sie auf diesem Weg nur, wie man ein Leben voller Verzicht und Widrigkeiten erreicht.
I was coached from a young age, and soaked up every bit of knowledge I could. From about 11 years, Neil Gresham took me on and really opened my eyes to the world of climbing that was outside Nottingham Climbing Centre. It was here that Ii really began to get motivated and didn’t want climbing to just be something that I did and enjoyed – I wanted to live climbing. I have always been competitive and still strive to be the best at what I do. I hate coming second!
Impressionen aus dem Magic Wood, 2009, von Nicolas Altmaier:
What’s your training regimen?
My training consists of climbing outside if the weather is nice, or climbing in the gym for a couple hours a day a few days a week. Sometimes I’ll do Climb-Fit workouts if I’m feeling extremely motivated. And drinking Oreo milkshakes.
„Live Coverage for Vienna: 28th May 10:00 start qualification men 17:00 or 19:30 start qualification women (depending on weather) 29th May 12:30 start semi finals 19:30 start finals 22:00 award ceremony“
Alex Puccio bouldert „Tequila Sunrise (V12)“ in diesem Video
What goals have you left to achieve in climbing? What are you doing to be able to progress even further?
Of course, I always want to be stronger than I am now, but with age my big challange from now on will be how to maintain the performance at the highest level. And although I’m focused on bouldering and sport climbing now, I want to try trad climbing as well. In any case, I wish to be true to my own motivation. For training I just climb in the gym. But I climb kick-ass hard problems and volume! And I also do campusing occasionally.
DPM: You have written about trying to understand grades & whether or not we should reaffirm the grade. Where do you stand on grades? Is grade inflation too prevalent and is revisiting old problems and down-rating helpful to our understanding? Dai: I’m not so keen to talk about grading, to be honest. Grades are strictly dependent on personal senses. For instance, while I may be able to climb some 8b+’s easily that other people may struggle, there are 8a’s I cannot do at all. There are many people who are trapped into ‚grading‘ so much that they are making climbing rather constrained and uneasy. That’s very unfortunate. Rock climbing is freer, and I think those who must be strict about grading should be some professionals only. Grade is only a small part of certain problem/route, whether or not a problem is up-graded or down-graded does not change the beauty of line or enjoyment of making the moves of any problem. What’s important is not the numbers but it’s whether or not one can do the moves of the problem one wants to climb – nothing else.
Wer immer auf dem aktuellsten Stand sein möchte – 48h!