What does it take to give yourself fully to the sport, to pioneer new rock, to find „What’s Next“? Will you find choss or climbing gold? It’s a Fine Line.
A new full-length film from directors Andrew Kornylak and Josh Fowler for Dead Point Media, A Fine Line follows one season with some of the world’s most visionary boulderers as they pursue the best – and worst – rock in America, from Alpine Colorado to remote Idaho and the Deep South.
Featuring Jimmy Webb, Brion Voges, Dave Graham, Daniel Woods, Peter Beal, and other top climbers, A Fine Line is a beautiful visual meditation on the bouldering life.
Does the fact that you are trying and sending other routes than FRFM after your return from your USA trip mean that you have given up with it?
No, I haven’t given up on FRFM. But with the weather getting warmer I’m just doing different things. I’m still motivated to send the route. After this last season working on it and falling off the top so many times, I think it’s good to change focus to something else and then come back with fresh motivation. At this point I would really love other climbers to get on it. It’s such a good route and it needs to be climbed; if not by me then by someone else.
Do you ever go to the gym to train, or is it enough to climb outside?
J: Well for me personally I enjoy climbing inside and outside. But before this trip I decided that maybe it was time to try and step it up and put myself on somewhat of a „training“ regiment. So Brion and I probably spent 4 to 5 days a week training at The Tennessee Bouldering Authority for around 3 months leading up to our departure.
B: Weather in the Southeast is unpredictable and often poor for extended periods of time. As a result, I often find myself in the gym more than I would like. But training in the gym has been instrumental in advancing my climbing. In fact, without our local gym, Tennessee Bouldering Authority, this would be a much less interesting interview.
Jon Partridge, Mitglied des „British Bouldering Team“, in Hueco Tanks:
Der Japaner Toru Nakajima hat in England einige Trad-Routen abgehakt, inkl. Video seiner Solo-Begehung von „Storms Over Africa (E6 6b)“
Die Teva Mountain Games, in deren Rahmen auch der nächste IFSC Boulder-Worldcup stattfindet, haben heute in Vail angefangen (Freitag gehts los mit Bouldern) und gehen noch bis Sonntag, 06.06.10! Eine Übersicht gibts hier.
Enzo Oddo in „GoGo (8c)“ in Le Palais:
Und für alle, die immer auf dem neuesten Stand sein wollen: 48h
Vor dem Hintergrund von Daniel Woods Erstbegehung und Bewertung „The Game (V16)„, ist doch diese Nachricht ganz interessant:
„Jimmy Webb has made the third ascent of Suspension of Disbelief in Eldorado Canyon, in one day, calling it V13. Dave Graham did the FA in 2005 in two days and graded it V13. It took Daniel Woodsaround 7 days or so to make the second ascent, and he upgraded it to V14.“ (Quelle)
Black Diamond wurde an Clarus verkauft, einen Überblick gibts bei ClimbingNarc, das offizielle Statement von Black Diamond hier, und hier die Diskussion dazu!
Videos von Adam Ondra in England, Energy Vampire O/S attempt:
You do not have any special training methods and once you said „I train more or less just by climbing!“ How often do you train and what is your ratio of rock climbing to climbing on plastic and bouldering?
Rock – sport climbing 85%, bouldering 15%.
Plastic – most of the time I train on bouldering walls, but on these bouldering walls I train endurance as well. I only climb indoor routes around twice a month. In winter, I climb on plastic five days a week, for two to three hours a day. During all other seasons, I usually climb on the rock, even after school and only on plastic for two weeks before the competitions.
Do you have a regular climbing partner and who do you like to train with the most?
More than half of the time I train alone. If I don’t train alone, I love to climb with my sister, when we’re bouldering it works quite well, we only have to figure out two different variations on the problems. I also train with Martin Stranik or I sometimes go to train with Tomas Mrazek, who has a really good bouldering wall in his house.
Dai Koyamada bouldert „The story of 2 worlds“ von Dave Graham!! Ein Video zumindest von einem Großteil des Boulders („The Dagger (8B+)“) gibts von Daniel Woods ab 7min15 (via ClimbingNarc):
BigUP hat ein kurzes Video über Indoor Climbing gedreht, über das ich bereits berichtet hatte – jetzt wurde es veröffentlicht:
A short film about indoor climbing featuring Paul Robinson, Sasha DiGiulian, Vasya Vorotnikov, and Ashima Shiraishi. Presented by Central Rock Gym in Worcester, MA, Rockwerx, prAna, Teknik, and e-grips. „There’s an infinite number of movements that can be done in the climbing gym…“